It’s been years now since Vero has had a restaurant serving French cuisine prepared in the classic manner of the late Yannick Martin, chef extraordinaire of former island favorite Café du Soir.
But on a recent visit to Quebec City, memories of yesteryear came flooding back when I dined at Le Continental, which for 60 years has been serving gourmet French dishes across the street from the famed Château Frontenac.
The tone was set from the second we walked in the door, and observed headwaiters in white dinner jackets flambéing dishes at tableside.
After ordering from a very impressive wine list, I started the evening with crab from the Gaspe Peninsula served with a Hollandaise sauce, and my husband ordered the escargots. How long has it been since you were served escargots still in their shells, along with one of those devilish tongs for trying to hold them steady?
Then for entrees, I chose the sea scallops prepared in a Meaux mustard and honey sauce, and my husband opted for noisettes of veal medallions topped with seared foie gras and Porto demi-glace. The giant scallops were perfectly seared – juicy, sweet, and literally melted in your mouth. My husband’s veal with foie gras was absolutely sumptuous.
But the piece de resistance came at the end of the meal. By a narrow margin, we voted for the crepes suzette over the Pernod pears. The crepes suzette was an absolute perfect rendition of this classic dish, and we concluded the meal, of course, with espresso.
What a tremendous French repast, and what a great way to reflect on the many evenings spent in Vero enjoying the classic preparations of Chef Yannick.
Ms. Rondeau’s regular dining column will resume next week.
