Now that the season is over, you may actually stand a chance of enjoying the great seafood at Joey’s Seafood Shack.
We had called for last-minute reservations a couple of times during March and April, but always found Joey’s sold out for the evening.
But on a mid-May Friday night, when our plans changed at the last minute, we arrived with no booking and found proprietor Kim Coveny happy to see three walk-in customers. For our part, we were happy to finally dine on what many consider Vero’s best seafood.
While the nondescript building on US1, in the block between the old Albertson’s and the IHOP, is primarily a retail seafood shop by day (though it does serve lunch), at night the lights are dimmed, the glass tables are topped with white table cloths, and the restaurant takes on a different vibe.
In addition to greeting customers, Kimmy shares culinary responsibilities with partner Joey Fenyak. He prepares the seafood, and she whips up wonderful soups and pastas from old Long Island family recipes.
On the first of two May visits, we ordered a bottle of wine from a surprisingly creative and reasonably priced artisanal wine list, and a basket of very tasty garlic bread made it to the table even before the wine.
For appetizers, I decided to try a cup of the Manhattan clam chowder ($6) and my husband opted for the lobster bisque ($8). On the second visit, I chose the conch chowder ($7), our companion picked the New England clam chowder ($6), and my husband had a half dozen oysters on the half shell ($14.95).
Of the appetizers, the Chesapeake oysters were as fresh and succulent as you could possibly hope, and the lobster bisque – with a dash of brandy instead of the more customary sherry – was very flavorful with a surprising amount of lobster meat. Top marks.
I preferred the conch chowder to the Manhattan (though both were very good), but the light New England clam chowder – while a fine soup in its own right – lacked that authentic chowda consistency and taste.
Following the appetizers, we were served the large Greek salads that come with all entrées. The salads included strawberries, which go surprisingly well with feta cheese.
For entrées on our first visit, I had the seafood special ($36), my husband ordered the broiled swordfish ($25.95), and our companion chose the crabcakes ($29.95). The second time, I opted for the salmon special ($28), my husband had the broiled grouper ($25.95), and our companion selected the eggplant parmigiana ($15.95).
My husband said the swordfish was the best he has had in a long time, perfectly cooked and accompanied by a side of pasta in an oil and garlic sauce. The broiled grouper he had on the return visit also was a beautiful piece of fish, again expertly prepared.
On my first visit, the seafood special consisted of little neck clams, mussels, shrimp and scallops, served in a very light marinara sauce over linguini. I loved this dish.
The salmon came to the table with sundried tomatoes, mushrooms and artichokes, along with wild rice and seaweed. The artichokes and seaweed played perfectly off the brandy cream sauce – a very successful dish.
Perhaps what was most surprising, however, was the eggplant parm – one of a half dozen Italian pasta dishes that Kimmy prepares. This could be the best eggplant parm in town.
Interestingly, this restaurant is only open for dinner on Friday and Saturday nights (it also served dinner on Thursday nights during the season).
But with partners Kimmy and Joey hovering about (at the end of the evening, she takes a seat at the piano and sometimes even sings), this restaurant has the homey feel of an Italian family kitchen. It is a great choice for seafood – and for pasta as well.
I welcome your comments, and encourage you to send feedback to me at [email protected] .
The reviewer dines anonymously at restaurants at the expense of Vero Beach 32963.
