To some customers, the platter of black rice, stewed turkey and vegetables sitting on the table may seem like only a meal, but to the family that prepared it, it’s a matter of faith and history.
Customers enjoy traditional Haitian dishes at Zafè’m Caribbean Restaurant. PHOTO BY NICK SAMUEL
The same family bonds – like the seasonings that bind the flavors in the food – blend easily with the quiet atmosphere of Zafè’m Carribean Restaurant, a celebrated Haitian eatery located off 45th Street in Gifford.
The workers and owners of the family-owned diner offer up prayers before reverently cooking up dishes born out of the island nation’s fusion of African, Caribbean and French influences. But the biggest ingredient is one not found in the cupboard, but instead in the hearts of those behind the counter.
“We cook with love. My mom is very religious. She tells us not to go to sleep with madness. She also tells us not to cook with madness because people can taste it,” said co-owner Rachelle Jacques, 39, of Palm Bay.
“We pray for about 10 minutes. We ask for the blessing of the food. When we close, we also pray. We thank the Lord for the day for bringing customers to us.”
The daily petitions are a simple, humble reminder for the family to live by principles, setting off a positive, spiritual aura each day at the establishment.
Legim – or vegetable medley – is a traditional Haitian dish loved by many at Zafè’m, which will celebrate its three-year anniversary in October. The presentation is stunning; a mixture of green papaya, eggplant, spinach, watercress, carrots, cabbage and chayote. The entrees are served with the customer’s must-have choice of rice and plantains.
Then there is the Lalo – or jute leaves – dish with shrimp and crab served with a bed of white rice and black bean puree.
Smoothies including flavors of soursop, papaya and passionfruit, along with Haitian lemonade, are another staple to the culture that customers enjoy.
Left to right: Hanley Jean with Zafè’m Caribbean Restaurant co-owners Ena Jacques, Rachelle Jacques and Lugens Simeon. PHOTO BY NICK SAMUEL
“I love this place. We love all the food here. I love the patties,” said Kathy Adea, 39, of Vero Beach, who stopped in on Tuesday to grab dinner for her family. “They’re very friendly and help you right away. This is a place where you can come, bring your friends and eat together.”
Zafè’m is co-owned by Rachelle Jacques and her husband Lugens Simeon, Jacques’ sister Ena Jacques, their mother Enitte Jacques, along with relatives Jodes Elveus and Toninio Louissaint. The taste of tradition at Zafè’m has an exultant history dating back to the Haitian Revolution.
A victorious history
Beyond the meals, which many describe as mouthwatering, the walls within Zafè’m hold an enduring history showcasing the culture of Haiti, which has a population of more than 11 million people. It’s a history, interwoven with the plight of politics, struggle and survival kept alive through paintings created by Haitian artists. The paintings, seen inside the eatery, bring awareness to customs, beauty and historical sites from the island nation.
A painting depicts the Citadelle Laferrière, a 108,000 square-foot fortress built by former slaves in northern Haiti in 1820. PHOTO BY NICK SAMUEL
One colorful painting by Haitian artist Barnes shows the iconic Citadelle Laferrière, a mountaintop fortress on the northern coast of Haiti. Haiti gained a hard-fought independence from France on Jan.1, 1804 at the end of the Haitian Revolution. It was the first nation in the west to cast off enslavement.
Citadelle Laferrière, a 108,000 square-foot fortress, was built by former slaves under the leadership of Haitian revolutionary leader Henri Christophe in 1820 to protect the now freed men, women and children.
A special soup – Soup Joumou – is only served at Haitian restaurants on Jan. 1 – Haitian Independence Day. The celebrated, flavorful soup marking the historic day is made with pumpkin, carrots, celery, cilantro, parsley, pasta, potatoes, turnip and culantro, Zafè’m owners said.
Simeon said drinking the soup makes him feel like he’s back home.
“The (former) slaves used to eat it as a symbol of unity and victory,” said Simeon, 34, of Palm Bay. “Knowing the story behind the soup, I’m proud of being part of the first Black nation to gain independence.”
Finding community
Before opening, the owners of Zafè’m brainstormed on where they could put a Haitian restaurant between Palm Bay and Port St. Lucie. The owners said local customers previously would have to travel to Brevard County or St. Lucie County to find a Haitian eatery.
Ena Jacques (right), co-owner of Zafè’m Caribbean Restaurant, with her daughter Charline Julien. PHOTO BY NICK SAMUEL
“They said they had to drive about 30 minutes to an hour to Fort Pierce to go to a Haitian restaurant,” the family said. “Instead, they can drive 15 minutes to get here. We’re the only Haitian restaurant in Indian River County.”
As the restaurant opened and word of mouth traveled, the family found a community of customers not only of Haitian descent, but of all nationalities. Some owners are multilingual, speaking English, Spanish, Haitian Creole and Portuguese, to communicate with people from all walks of life.
Some familiar faces at Zafè’m are co-owner Ena Jacques, 45, her daughter Charline Julien, 18, and son Hanley Jean, 22, all of Port St. Lucie. The son and daughter usually take orders at the front counter, showing customers the delectable meals inside the trays, while Ena, Rachelle and Enitte Jacques cook away in the kitchen.
The young siblings said that it was “a good feeling seeing the smiles people have on their faces when they come in.” Both said the sit-down meals remind customers of when they were back home in Haiti. The restaurant brings unity, the pair added, saying customers are ecstatic to try the meals.
The siblings, both first-generation Haitian Americans, said they grew up eating nourishing dinners with white rice, black beans, fried or stewed chicken, fried pork and plantains, along with Haitian spaghetti. They grew up listening to the island sounds of Haitian artists and bands like Carimi, known for hit songs such as “Buzz.”
Discovering meaning
Hanley Jean points to the Zafè’m logo, which shows a chef holding a dish underneath a crown and silverware. “Zafè’m” means “my own,” Jean said.
Ena Jacques (left), co-owner of Zafè’m Caribbean Restaurant, with her son Hanley Jean. PHOTO BY NICK SAMUEL
“We chose the name because it symbolizes this is our restaurant and no one else’s,” Jean said.
Another painting on the wall shows a woman carrying a basket of fruit on her head, a practice common for mothers in Haiti, the family said. Charline Julien said the artwork shows how powerful and balanced a mother can be.
“Our mom is a physical representation of that,” Charline Julien said of Ena Jacques, who moved from Haiti to Florida in 1996. Lugens said he occasionally visits Cap-Haitien in north Haiti, more than five hours north of the capital Port-au-Prince.
The family agrees that it’s the customer interactions that have the most meaning. Simeon said people always feel pleased when they come to Zafè’m.
“You have to make everybody feel like they’re home,” Simeon said.
Rachelle Jacques’ smile beams brightly thinking about the talks with regulars ordering their favorite meals, including popular dishes like the large fried chicken or turkey with black rice, plantains and a small griyo. The eatery is open from 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday through Saturday, and closed on Sundays.
Jacques said the family faithfully dresses up for church on Sundays and eats big meals together at home. She stops for a moment and thinks about the power of family and prayer.
“Prayer is important because it can move a mountain,” Jacques said. “Prayer can do anything as long as you have faith.”
Photos by Nick Samuel
