DINING: Chill & Grill – Simply scrumptious

Can anything be better than a pot of heavenly steamed clams, and a crusty loaf of French bread to accompany it?

I think not. So simple. So good.

Well, the best steamed clam appetizer in this area is found at a smallish restaurant in an out-of-the-way location – Chill & Grill.

No one prepares a more sumptuous, addictive bowl of steamed little necks than Chef Scott Burch – for six years executive chef at Windsor.

Steamed in a pinot grigio, garlic and clam sauce, the broth is to die for. And the bowl is brought to the table with a delicious baguette (why do so many restaurants scrimp on the bread) for soaking up every last drop.

Perhaps that is part of the explanation for the success of this small place – with a casual vibe and fine-dining cuisine – now completing its fourth year on U.S. 1 midway between Vero and Sebastian.

But the steamed clams are hardly the whole story for Chill & Grill’s success in this off-the-beaten track-location. Visit after visit, whether it’s during season or summer, the dishes here are consistently excellent.

Two weeks ago, we decided to go a bit late on a weeknight since Chill & Grill does not take reservations. Arriving at 7:45 on a Thursday, we found the cozy grill full – but were soon ushered by Chef Burch’s wife Csilla to a nice table.

For starters, I of course ordered the steamed clams ($13.99). My husband planned to have another favorite appetizer, the calamari fries ($9.99), but switched at the last second to a wedge salad ($4.50). Our companion decided to try the Sebastian Stew ($4), a delicious combination of chicken, andouille, brisket and okra in a tomato broth.

For entrées on this most recent visit, I chose the shrimp and grits ($16.99), my husband went for the barbecued salmon ($21.99), and our companion opted for the shrimp and crab pasta ($21.99).

The shrimp and grits were as good a rendition of this Southern classic as I have ever had in Vero. The crab cake was served atop a nest of angel hair pasta prepared with a pesto and lobster sauce, with four beautiful shrimp arrayed around the perimeter.

My husband’s BBQ glazed salmon was perfectly cooked in the Chill & Grill’s wood-burning oven, and was served over spinach with bacon, onion and crispy shallots.

On previous visits, we have enjoyed the roasted chicken with garlic mashed potatoes (wonderful comfort food); the fork-tender short ribs; and a very tasty smoked brisket served over mac and cheese.

To conclude this most recent visit, we shared a delicious piece of bread pudding with chocolate and caramel sauce ($6.50). The house-made Key Lime pie also is excellent.

While it does not have cocktails, Chill & Grill has a more than adequate selection of wines, and an interesting selection of specialty craft beers on draft.

Dinner for two with a couple of glasses of beer or wine should run in the $90 area before tax and tip.

Chill & Grill has developed an intensely loyal cadre of customers over the years, and has become the restaurant where Sebastian and Vero diners meet.

While getting there may require a bit of a drive, the trip home passes quickly as you think back on eating those wonderful steamed clams.

I welcome your comments, and encourage you to send feedback to me at [email protected].

The reviewer dines anonymously at restaurants at the expense of Vero Beach 32963.

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