Restaurateur John Marx knows what his regulars want. So during the offseason, he redecorated the Polo Grill – which many beachside residents view as their dining “club” – to make it feel even more “clubby.”
The walls of the main dining room – with its dark paneling, leather chairs and booths – have now been painted a rich shade of green. Not quite British racing green, but you get the idea. New crystal chandeliers and new valances have given the room an even more classic look.
The feeling of being a “member” rather than a “guest” is enhanced by the veteran servers, who go out of their way to greet regulars by name and are extremely knowledgeable and attentive. As a group, the servers may be the best in town.
Unlike many Vero restaurants, Polo is a place where table conversation doesn’t require shouting. And for many diners, the comfort level extends to the food – where bistro favorites like meatloaf and calves liver with bacon are available as well as very good (and high-priced) seafood and veal chops.
Last week, four of us stopped by for dinner. Even though the season is not fully underway, Polo – located in Portales de Vero, at the south end of Ocean Drive – was close to full when we arrived at 7:15. Proprietor Marx welcomed us warmly and ushered us to a nice booth in the main dining room. We quickly ordered a bottle of chardonnay.
On this particular evening, we decided to forgo appetizers and go straight to salads, which are included with entrees. I chose a Caesar salad – crispy romaine hearts, garlic croutons and shaved parmesan cheese – one of our companions opted for a Caesar salad, and my husband and our other companion opted for wedge salads.
For entrees on this visit, I ordered the Polo grouper ($39.95), my husband chose the pompano ($39.95), one of our companions opted for the Polo lump crab cakes ($33.95), and the other decided to try the meatloaf ($26.95).
My grouper was broiled in a lemon butter sauce and topped with chevre cheese, sundried tomatoes and black olives. A very successful dish. My husband’s fresh pompano was also broiled in a lemon butter sauce. Even though the pompano had been seared on both sides, it was still moist inside – not the easiest thing to accomplish.
The Polo Club meatloaf, certified black angus beef with a burgundy mushroom sauce on top and fried onions on the side, was delicious as always, and the crab cakes had large chunks of lump crab in a light seasoning and served with a creamy pesto lemon aioli.
For dessert, we were offered a complimentary scoop of mango sorbet or mocha chip ice cream. Our votes were split between the two Haagen-Dazs flavors.
Polo is not inexpensive. Prices seem to keep creeping up, and dinner for two with appetizers and a modest bottle of wine should run about $130 before taxes and tip.
But I would be remiss were I to fail to mention the Polo Grill’s “Dinner at Five,” where those willing to come at 5 p.m. or 5:15 p.m. can order from a menu that includes 7 entrees for $18.95 and 4 entrees for $21.95. These extremely popular dinners also include the choice of the Caesar or bleu wedge salad, and ice cream for dessert.
It’s always great to visit a restaurant where you can feel confident you are going to have a fine evening. With excellent servers, John Marx has proven he has a good feel for what many beachside diners want, and this comfortable restaurant is certainly one you can rely on.
I welcome your comments, and encourage you to send feedback to me at [email protected].
The reviewer dines anonymously at restaurants at the expense of Vero Beach 32963.
