It was a gorgeous fall evening – the kind you long for during a Vero summer – and when the hostess asked if we would care to dine on Cobalt’s oceanfront patio, it only took a second to make the decision.
So she led us through the fashionable dark-paneled grill of the island’s best hotel, out the open doors of the 15-foot-high glass wall, and showed us to a perfect table overlooking the firepit. Could anything be better?
Well on this special night, our table also provided a spectacular view of the November supermoon rising over the sea. Magic.
Our server, Tori, quickly took our wine order, and we began pondering the Asian-influenced menu of executive chef Daniel Traimas, who came here last winter from the Sable Kitchen & Bar, a creative New American restaurant in Chicago.
I finally decided to start with the steamed clams ($18), and my husband ordered the tuna crisp ($15).
The small, sweet clams had been steamed with chorizo and fire roasted tomatoes in a Yuengling broth. While the clams were excellent, the broth was one of the best for dipping I’ve enjoyed in quite some time.
My husband’s appetizer was Chef Dan’s take on tuna tartar, featuring small chunks of raw yellowtail tuna, cucumber, scallions, and tobiko (a flying fish roe) with a lime ponzu sauce, served atop wonton crisps. A very creative and refreshing starter.
Then for entrées, I went with the sea bass ($28) and my husband opted for the stuffed calamari and frites ($26).
The sea bass was a very nice piece of fish, perfectly prepared, and served with jasmine rice, baby bok choy, fried basil, and Thai sweet chili. A flavorful medley of Asian tastes.
My husband’s calamari was served with an Andouille sausage stuffing, and was accompanied by parmesan potato wedges, crispy spinach, and a remoulade. An excellent dish. We have on previous visits to Cobalt enjoyed several of Chef Dan’s other seafood preparations.
On this evening, we decided to forego dessert, and simply enjoy the last of our wine and the rising supermoon. Dinner for two with wine, before tax and tip, ran $140.
Cobalt benefits from the fact that its adjoining lounge attracts large numbers of locals to what is clearly the top happy hour in town.
On a good night, Cobalt is a very good hotel restaurant. And Chef Dan, who grew up working in the kitchens of his Thai parents, skillfully brings hints of his South Asian roots to Cobalt’s otherwise classic American offerings.
I welcome your comments, and encourage you to send feedback to me at tina@verobeach32963.com .
The reviewer dines anonymously at restaurants at the expense of Vero Beach 32963.
