With regular flights to Havana from South Florida set to start in mid-December for as little as $150 roundtrip, it is only a matter of time until foodies begin returning from this nearby island with tales of new approaches to traditional Cuban cuisine.
But in the meantime, where can you go around here for a deep immersion into authentic Cuban food?
The Wave Kitchen at Gloria Estefan’s Costa d’Este offers a small sampling of the singer’s “favorites” from the island where she was born, but most of the hotel’s menu consists of American classics.
The fact is there aren’t many good Cuban restaurants in the Vero area. But two options worth trying, which are a much shorter drive than the trek to Miami, are Las Palmas Cuban Restaurant, set back from the highway in a strip mall in Sebastian, and Cuban Island in Indialantic, highlighted by a bright red ’50s Chevy out front.
Both restaurants can be crowded, but both accept reservations.
Las Palmas, the larger of the two, is cheery and colorful, though a bit shabby. It has a reputation for indifferent service, and on our recent visit, a surly hostess slapped plastic menus down on the table and nobody else dropped by for the next 10 minutes.
But the food here is surprisingly good – and in fairness, our server, when one finally appeared, was very helpful. For an appetizer, my husband and I shared an order of Tostones Rellenos ($12) – 2 fried green plantain cups filled with ropa vieja (shredded beef), and 2 plantain cups filled with garlic shrimp. A delicious start.
Then for entrées, I went for the Camarones Enchilados ($16) and my husband opted for the Chuletas Fritas ($14). My camarones were jumbo shrimp sautéed in a spicy creole sauce. Excellent. But my husband’s grilled pork chops rubbed with Cuban spices were dry and tough.
“That’s how they always are,” our server said, and suggested my husband switch to the oven-roasted pork instead. This proved an excellent recommendation, as the roast pork turned out to be everything the pork chops weren’t – juicy, tender and extremely flavorful.
But of the two restaurants, our vote would go to Cuban Island – a quite small, stylish eatery where we were enthusiastically greeted, and immediately shown to the table being held for us.
We quickly ordered red wine sangria, which came to the table adorned with citrus slices. It was one of the best renditions of this refreshing drink I have ever tasted (much better than the too-sweet version at Las Palmas).
For a starter on this evening, we decided to share the Ejemplares de Cuba ($12) – a sampler that let us try empanadas, two croquettes, fried yucca, ropa vieja, and picadillo. All were quite tasty, but I would give a slight edge on the ropa vieja to Las Palmas.
Then for entrées at Cuban Island, I ordered the grilled seafood platter ($26) and my husband chose the lechon asado ($15). Both were served with rice, black beans, a tostone and a maduro.
My husband’s mojo-marinated pork was very tender and tasty – Cubans really make great lechon asado. And my seafood platter was outstanding – beautiful scallops and a perfectly cooked fresh snapper filet served with mojo sauce topped with onions.
For dessert at both restaurants, we tried the flan. A close vote here for the creamier flan at Las Palmas.
At Cuban Island, we also very much enjoyed the stylings of a Cuban guitarist on the Saturday night we visited. Las Palmas also has live music on Fridays and Saturdays.
Overall, we would give a nod for fine dining to Cuban Island – and a big nod to Cuban Island for service. But it is a farther drive for many of our readers (figure 50 minutes to an hour from Central Beach), and you can get good Cuban food in a somewhat more casual setting in about a half-hour at Las Palmas on the north side of Sebastian.
Either way, buen apetito!
I welcome your comments, and encourage you to send feedback to me at tina@verobeach32963.com .
The reviewer dines anonymously at restaurants at the expense of Vero Beach 32963.
