I liked the Cuban version, loved the Peruvian, and am even more enthusiastic now about the Honduran.
I’m talking about the paella at Costa d’Este. While executive chefs and menus have changed, paella has been a staple of Gloria Estefan’s attractive beachfront restaurant since it opened eight years ago.
There are as many versions of this internationally-known rice dish as there are cooks, and Vero diners now are able to enjoy the paella of Honduran-born Armando Galeas, latest executive chef of The Wave Kitchen & Bar.
Galeas came to Costa d’Este earlier this year after serving as chef de cuisine at Temple Orange, the seaside restaurant at the five-star Eau Palm Beach Resort (formerly the Ritz Carlton in Manalapan).
While The Wave continues to also offer superb seafood and excellent steaks, in mid-summer Galeas introduced a revised menu that now includes not one but two paellas: a tempting-sounding mushroom and local vegetable paella ($25 for one, $45 for two), and a paella that is a mix of seafood and meat ($32 for one, $50 for two).
On a recent evening, I tried the mixed paella, which Galeas has named after the mountainous Calasparra region of Spain where short-grain rice well suited to this dish is grown.
The key to a great paella lies in the absorptive properties of the rice, and the rice in this paella had soaked up the flavors of its ingredients – a wonderful fusion of clams, mussels, scallops, jumbo shrimp, Spanish chorizo, chicken, peppers and peas. Absolutely delicious.
But just as I went with one of my favorites, my husband chose to go with one of his. When he learned the fresh local catch of the day was swordfish ($29), the discussion was over. It turned out to be a great choice – a beautiful piece of swordfish, grilled perfectly, accompanied by seasonal veggies.
Our two dishes highlight what has become a major attraction for The Wave: The menu has something for just about everybody.
The only complaint we hear about The Wave is that when it is pretty full (which it often is these days), it is more than a little noisy.
On another visit, we started with two appetizers – the fish cevice ($14), and the ahi tuna poke ($15).
Costa’s chefs have always prepared interesting cevices, and Galeas is no exception. The one currently offered has fresh raw fish marinated in citrus, with aji amarillo, jalapenos, radish, red onion, cilantro and plantain chips. Very refreshing.
The tasty newcomer to the menu, however, is the ahi tuna poke – a Hawaiian appetizer of raw tuna, cut into chunks, garnished with red onion and avocado, and served with sesame soy vinaigrette and wontons. Poke (pronounced poh-KEH), which seems to be having a bit of a moment all over the country, has reached Vero.
Then for entrées, I decided to try one of the Estefan Kitchen Favorites, the Cuban style steak ($27), and my husband went with the Wagyu skirt steak and frites ($29).
The Cuban steak (bistec de palomilla) was a very thin but flavorful steak seasoned with garlic salt, onions and parsley, and served with black beans, white rice and sweet plantains. The skirt steak, topped with chimichurri, was not only tasty but surprisingly tender. It was accompanied by great yucca fries, arugula and cipollini onions.
On both visits, the dining room was quite full. Among those dining when we were there last week were a couple of dozen participants in a beer tasting and dinner featuring the brews of the Walking Tree Brewery. The dishes looked great, and the beer aficionados appeared to be having a great evening. The Wave also is planning wine pairing dinners for later in the winter.
With fresh seafood, excellent steaks, interesting Cuban dishes and the best paella in town, The Wave has become one of our favorite island restaurants. Now if there was just some way to slightly muffle the noise.
I welcome your comments, and encourage you to send feedback to me at [email protected] .
The reviewer dines anonymously at restaurants at the expense of Vero Beach 32963.
