DINING: Café Coconut Cove – German food at Oktoberfest time

Once again, it’s October – and having lived for some years in Munich, that to me means Oktoberfest.

I was never one for the mob scene in the giant Hofbräu-Festzelt beer tent, but I sure do miss the bratwursts, the leberkäse, the sauerkraut and, of course, the German pastries.

So at this time of the year, we generally drive north on Vero’s barrier island to get an authentic German food fix at Café Coconut Cove in Melbourne Beach.

The owners of this restaurant are a German restaurant family that came here a quarter century ago from Aachen, and the menu in this attractive hide-away on the Indian River lagoon is definitely Deutsche.

Last Thursday, our party of three arrived at 7:40 p.m. to a full restaurant that had just a couple of tables available (they don’t take reservations). This place seems to be gaining more fans with each passing year.

For starters, we decided to forgo the wonderful crispy German potato pancakes with sour cream and an apple cranberry compote that we have enjoyed here on previous visits, and this time ordered the homemade liver pâté ($7.50) and the mushroom toast ($7.50).

The pâté, presented with crackers and bread, was gone in a flash. Delicious! And the sautéed mushrooms, served with grilled bread and a horseradish dill cream sauce, were very tasty.

Then we proceeded to the small but excellent German mixed salads which are included with each meal.

It’s with the entrées that the decision-making here gets really tough. Café Coconut Cove offers a choice of a half dozen schnitzels including, in deference to Florida, a grouper schnitzel; a half dozen wurst plates including one featuring rouladen; a half dozen grill plates; and even a couple of dishes for vegetarians.

On this evening, I ordered the combination plate ($24), my husband opted for the basic Wiener schnitzel ($26), and our companion chose the bratwurst plate ($18).

My combination plate consisted of jäger schnitzel – a lightly breaded medallion of pork tenderloin – along with a bratwurst, sauerbraten, and red cabbage. Memories of Bavaria came flooding back as I enjoyed these classic dishes.

My husband’s lightly breaded veal cutlet was also an excellent rendition of what might be the best known specialty of Viennese cuisine.

But for a German food fix, there was no topping our companion’s bratwurst plate – two pork and beef brats, perfectly cooked, and served with sauerkraut. All of the dishes came with a potato puff and a vegetable, in this case sugar snap peas.

For dessert on this evening, we passed on the homemade Black Forest cake – a delicious confection we have enjoyed in the past – and went for the homemade apple strudel topped with vanilla ice cream. Fantastic!

To accompany your meal, Café Coconut Cove offers a very reasonably priced wine list (including several Rieslings and one German pinot noir) as well as Warsteiner Pils, a German premium beer.

Dinner for two at Café Coconut Cove, together with a nice bottle of wine, comes in for well under $100 including tip.

Café Coconut Cove also has a handful of outdoor tables, right on the Indian River. On an evening when there is a breeze, the outdoor tables provide a perfect setting for a predinner sunset drink while waiting for a table.

The combination of the riverside setting, the old-world European charm you find inside the restaurant and the good German food are hard to beat.

I welcome your comments, and encourage you to send feedback to me at tina@verobeach32963.com .

The reviewer dines anonymously at restaurants at the expense of Vero Beach 32963.

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