I am a traditionalist when it comes to the preparation of classic dishes.
So when it comes to lobster rolls, I like cold lobster meat, with just a smidgen of mayonnaise, in a frankfurter roll spit on the top that has been lightly grilled on the sides. That’s the way they’ve been doing it in Maine for three quarters of a century, and that’s the way I want it today.
There are several restaurants along the Portland waterfront that prepare lobster rolls in exactly that manner, but on a recent one-day visit, my husband insisted on wandering a few blocks inland to Eventide, a restaurant renowned for its oysters.
When we asked a passerby for directions, however, my ears perked up. “Oh, Eventide,” she said. “Best lobster rolls in Portland!” Hmmm, maybe this was going to work out well after all.
We arrived at Eventide at the end of the lunch hour, and found that even at quarter of two, there was a half-hour wait. As we stood to the side and watched, a couple of shuckers behind the front counter were busily operating on some of the 10 varieties of Maine oysters on display.
When we were seated, my husband decided to sample six types of Maine oysters, and the server talked me into trying a bowl of Maine lobster stew. To accompany these, we ordered a couple of glasses of a very nice Jacquère from the small but well-thought-out wine list.
The oysters were fabulous, with my husband rating the Pemaquids and Norumbega oysters from the cold waters of the Damariscotta River just a bit ahead of the Glidden Points, the Winter Point selects, the Dodge Coves and the North Havens. They were served with a choice of mignonettes and a very refreshing horseradish ice.
The lobster stew, however, was quite unlike any lobster stew I had previously seen. A lobster stew made with coconut, green curry and large shitake mushrooms? I dipped my spoon in with some trepidation. I took one taste, then another, looked at my husband, and said, “This may be the best lobster stew ever!” He tried it and quickly agreed.
So following the oysters and stew, we decided to try Eventide’s lobster rolls.
What was presented to us violated most Maine lobster roll guidelines.
The lobster meat, for starters, was not served in a toasted hot dog roll, but was nestled in a pillowy roll very similar to a steamed bao or Chinese dim sum bun. And the generous chunks of lobster were not cold but had been sautéed in warm brown butter. This was not what I had in mind as the perfect Maine lobster roll. But the combination, I reluctantly conceded, was absolutely delicious.
If you are visiting Southern Maine and looking for spectacular fresh oysters, one of the shuckers at Eventide told us that at the height of the summer season, they serve about 3,000 per day.
And while I still like lobster rolls the way they are supposed to be made, some creative departures from tradition turn out to be incredibly flavorful. Just don’t give me my lobster in a croissant or hamburger bun.
Ms. Rondeau’s regular dining column will resume next week.