Goodness knows, we had hoped this would be a totally positive review of Bistro Fourchette, now nearing the end of its first year in the old downtown.
This is the closest we have in Vero to a classic French bistro – those wonderful little unpretentious places we have discovered over the years where the dishes are traditional, the ingredients seasonal, the service attentive, and the proprietors interact with the diners.
There is no intrinsic reason why Bistro Fourchette should not be exactly like that. The space long occupied by the beloved Swiss Melody Inn now has a very French feel, enhanced by French cabaret music, and is more attractive and cozy than ever.
The menu is a winner as well. And we have never seen a harder-working hostess than Loretta Becht, who on the night we visited this past week, was graciously and attentively serving 20 diners that included a dozen walk-ins (yes, we were among them).
And Chef Stephane Becht, her husband, a native of Alsace and until a year ago executive chef at Windsor, would certainly seem to have the culinary credentials to make Bistro Fourchette a winner. But does he have the qualities of a great bistro proprietor?
If so, they have not yet been on display on our visits.
On our most recent visit, our party of three started with glasses of Breezette Rosé, a very light, refreshing wine from Côtes de Provence. An excellent way to prepare for dinner on a hot summer night.
For starters, I ordered the salade de saison ($8), my husband had the escargots bourguignon ($9) and our companion had the soup of the day ($6), which was an asparagus velouté.
The salad was a beautifully presented mix of seasonal greens, dressed with Dijon mustard vinaigrette, and lent a little crunch by house potato strips. The snails, flambéed with cognac and then baked in a herb garlic butter, were a sumptuous rendition of this classic. The asparagus velouté was very smooth.
Then for entrées, I opted for the escalope de poulet pane ($23), my husband chose the evening’s special meatloaf ($21), and our companion had the quiche Lorraine ($19).
My husband’s meatloaf, topped with a heavenly morel sauce, could not have been better. It was accompanied by delicious truffle mashed potatoes and broccoli rabe. Our companion’s quiche Lorraine also was a classic, accompanied by a very nice spinach salad.
My breaded chicken also was topped by the wonderful morel sauce, and was served with excellent vegetables featuring Provençal tomato and asparagus.
But my chicken breast was blackened around the edges – not a fatal problem, I thought – but further efforts to eat it found it overcooked to the point where it was no longer cuttable, let alone chewable. I should have sent it back, but I didn’t (my fault), enjoying the marvelous veggies that surrounded the chicken.
For dessert, we shared a plate of coffee ice cream profiteroles with a warm chocolate sauce ($6).
What keeps me from giving Bistro Fourchette high marks is how they handled l’affaire poulet. At the end of the meal – when only the largely intact chicken breast remained on an otherwise clean plate – I mentioned the problem as the dishes were being cleared to our server. “I will tell the chef,” she said.
One would have expected a true bistro proprietor to then have come out to inquire, or offer an apology, but that did not occur. Chef Becht never emerged from the kitchen in the two hours we were there except to walk across the restaurant floor to visit the restroom – with nary a word to anyone.
That is not a classic French bistro proprietor.
Bistro Fourchette could fill a sweet spot in our dining firmament. Loretta Becht certainly seems to be doing more than her part to make the venture a success. A little more out-of-the-kitchen effort is required from the proprietor.
I welcome your comments, and encourage you to send feedback to me at tina@verobeach32963.com.
The reviewer dines anonymously at restaurants at the expense of Vero Beach 32963.
