DINING: Chill & Grill – Oh, those addictive steamed clams

What keeps people flocking to a restaurant in the middle of nowhere – a smallish building in an out-of-the-way location that for many local diners is about as inconvenient as it gets.

I can’t speak for all this restaurant’s fans, but in my case, the explanation lies in the steamed clams.

The Chill & Grill is hardly the only local restaurant serving a steamed clam appetizer. And at $13.99, it is certainly not the least expensive around.

But no one prepares a more sumptuous, addictive bowl of steamed little necks than chef Scott Burch – for six years executive chef at Windsor.

Steamed in a pinot grigio, garlic and clam sauce, the broth is to die for. And the bowl is brought to the table with a delicious baguette (why do so many restaurants scrimp on the bread?) for soaking up every last drop.

Perhaps that is part of the explanation for the success of Chill & Grill, a place with a casual vibe and fine-dining cuisine now completing its third year on US 1 midway between Vero and Sebastian.

While I obviously try to visit a wide variety of restaurants to prepare these dining reviews, I confess I have been drawn back to Chill & Grill twice this past month by the wonderful, heavenly steamed clams.

On our most recent visit, we decided to go a bit late on a weeknight since Chill & Grill does not take reservations. Arriving at 7:45 on a Thursday, we were ushered by chef Burch’s wife Csilla to a nice spot in the middle of this cozy grill.

(Our timing proved to be fortuitous, because every table in the dining room was filled 15 minutes later by a stream of people who apparently had the same dining-on-the-late-side idea.)

Beyond the steamed clams, the other “don’t miss” starter here is the calamari fries ($9.99).

While they look just like French fries, they are made from calamari cut lengthwise, rolled with panko bread crumbs, and deep fried. Served with aioli, they make a tremendous appetizer to share.

For entrées on this most recent visit, I chose the half-chicken ($18.99), my husband went for the Chill & Grill’s version of a surf and turf, a tenderloin and crabcake dinner ($29.99), and our companion opted for the clams with a white linguine sauce ($16.99).

The wood oven roasted chicken with garlic mashed potatoes is a wonderful comfort dish, and the other entrées got high marks as well.

On our previous visit, I had dined on beautiful large diver scallops ($27.99), perfectly sautéed and served on a bed of greens. Fantastic. My husband had the fork-tender short ribs ($21.99), and our companion chose the very tasty smoked brisket served over mac and cheese ($17.99).

We have also over the past year enjoyed the grilled lamb chops, the seared duck breast (beautiful thin, medium rare slices of duck on a bed of spinach), and the blackened shrimp and grits (a great rendition of this Southern classic).

To conclude this last visit, we shared a piece of sensational ricotta cheesecake ($6) for dessert. The house-made Key Lime pie also is excellent.

While it does not have cocktails, Chill & Grill has a more than adequate selection of wines, and an interesting selection of specialty craft beers on draft.

Dinner for two with a couple of glasses of beer or wine should run in the $90 area before tax and tip.

In its US 1 home, Chill & Grill has developed an intensely loyal cadre of customers who come from both Sebastian and Vero.

While the location may require a bit of a drive, try Chill & Grill and I think you will agree the 15 or 20 minutes in the car was time well spent.

I welcome your comments, and encourage you to send feedback to me at [email protected].

The reviewer dines anonymously at restaurants at the expense of Vero Beach 32963.

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