From time to time, my husband – who was born and raised in Massachusetts – gets a craving for whole belly fried clams.
As a regional New England delicacy, whole belly fried clams are on a par with the classic lobstah roll. Some Ipswich clam devotees would say they are even better. While you can get decent – not great, but not bad – lobster rolls at a couple of Vero and Sebastian restaurants, my husband would tell you there are not even half-decent whole belly fried clams to be found in Indian River County.
So a week ago, we did what we often due when the craving strikes, and journeyed 20-some miles up A1A to the New England Eatery and Pub in Melbourne Beach.
This roadside eatery, now entering its third decade, has been spiffed up considerably over the years, but it can still be charitably described as extremely casual.
Arriving shortly after 6 on a Sunday evening, we were told that both the inside dining room and the covered patio area were full, and there would be at least a 20-minute wait. We had forgotten the weather is still bad up north, and many New Englanders have yet to go home.
We normally are reluctant to sit out on the patio – smoking is allowed in this area, unlike the main dining room – but we decided to take the first available table. Fortunately, when we were called, it was for a table inside.
For starters on this evening, my husband (of course) ordered the New England clam chowder ($4.95), which he rates second in this area only to that at the 12A Buoy in Fort Pierce. I decided to start with the mahi chowder ($4.95), a spicy tomato-based soup, and our companion asked for the two to be mixed half and half – a combination she favors.
Then for entrées, I ordered the broiled Nantucket trio ($21.95), my husband (of course) chose the whole belly clams ($21.95) and our companion went for the fried shrimp dinner ($15.95). All were accompanied by a choice of sides.
The Nantucket plate consists of a very nice flaky filet of cod, sea scallops and shrimp, topped with buttery garlic bread crumbs, and was served with a side of steamed veggies. An excellent dish and, as usual here, perfectly prepared. The lightly breaded, deep-fried jumbo shrimp were also very good, topped by three tasty fried onion rings.
But the whole belly clams were even more wonderful on this visit than usual. And the $21.95 portion is large enough to satisfy even the hungriest New Englander’s craving for these beauties. You can get a smaller portion for $18.95, but as my husband says, “Who’d want to do that?”
We finished on this most recent occasion with a nice tart piece of Key Lime pie ($3.95). Not exactly a New England specialty, but excellent.
On many previous visits, we have enjoyed the New England Eatery’s lobster roll ($16.95). The classic lobstah roll, as true aficionados know, consists of steamed lobster meat (claws and knuckles), tossed sparingly in mayonnaise with a bit of diced celery for a little crunch, a dash of lemon, and a buttered split-top hotdog bun that has been toasted until the sides are golden brown.
The last couple of times we have ordered it at the New England, the bun has been perfect and the bite-sized lobster chunks sweet and savory.
These are only a few of the New England seafood dishes offered on a fairly extensive menu, and in many years of visiting this restaurant, we have never been disappointed. If you are craving whole-belly clams, a lobstah roll, or a New England seafood fix – with no early prospect of making it to the Massachusetts or Maine coast – this is a place you are likely to leave happy.
I welcome your comments, and encourage you to send feedback to me at [email protected]
The reviewer dines anonymously at restaurants at the expense of Vero Beach 32963.
