Among the few constants in life are the glowing reports we receive from diners at the Polo Grill, which for the past half dozen years has been serving dependably good meals nightly in Portales de Vero at the south end of Ocean Drive.
With its dark paneling, leather chairs and booths, and its martini-and-red-meat ambience, a number of beachside residents have come to view Polo as their dining “club” – and proprietor John Marx goes out of his way to make regulars feel more like “members” than simply guests.
In the most recent remodeling, there is an even more “clubby” dining area – the “green room” – where the bar off the main dining room used to be. This now is a very attractive space that can comfortably accommodate an additional three dozen or so diners.
Unlike many Vero restaurants, Polo is a place where table conversation doesn’t require shouting. And for many diners, the comfort level extends to the food – where bistro favorites like meatloaf and calves liver with bacon are available as well as very good (and a bit pricey) seafood and veal chops.
Last week, three of us stopped by for dinner. As usual, the restaurant was packed when we arrived at 7:45, which was the earliest reservation available.
Marx ushered us to a nice booth in the main dining room, and on the table we found a list of red and white wines being offered for $35 (up $5 from last year – who says there’s no inflation in the economy?). We quickly ordered a nice bottle of chardonnay.
On this particular evening, we decided to forego appetizers, and go straight to salads, which are included with entrees. I chose a Caesar salad – crispy romaine hearts, garlic croutons and shaved parmesan cheese – while my husband and our companion opted for bleu wedge salads. The latter were particularly nice, consisting of a wedge of iceberg lettuce, chunks of Danish bleu cheese, crisp bacon, and topped with a creamy bleu dressing.
For entrees on this visit, we decided it was a night for seafood. On our previous visit, we had enjoyed a perfectly grilled veal chop and fork-tender lamb osso bucco (Polo also offers pork osso buco).
This time, I chose the Kelly scallops ($38.95), my husband opted for the pan-roasted pompano ($39.95), and our companion chose the shrimp scampi ($35.95).
My large sea scallops were perfectly cooked and served in a lemon herb butter sauce. They couldn’t have been fresher. My husband’s pompano was also served in a lemon butter sauce. Even though the pompano had been seared on both sides, it was still moist inside – not the easiest thing to accomplish. Our companion was equally enthusiastic about her shrimp, sautéed with tomato, garlic and herbed scampi butter.
At dessert time, diners are offered a complimentary scoop of mango sorbet or mocha chip ice cream. Votes were split between the two Haagen-Dazs flavors.
Dinner for two with appetizers and a modest bottle of wine should run about $120 before taxes and tip.
I also would be remiss were I to fail to mention the Polo Grill’s “Dinner at Five,” where those willing to come at 5 p.m. or 5:15 (I never cease to be amazed at how many dine at this hour) can order from a menu that includes seven entrees for $18.95 and four entrees for $21.95.
These extremely popular dinners also include the choice of the Caesar or bleu wedge salad, and ice cream for dessert. House wines are available with the “Dinner at Five” menu for $5.95 per glass, and house cocktails for $6.95.
It’s always great to visit a restaurant where you can feel confident you are going to have a fine evening. With excellent servers, John Marx has proven he has a good feel for what many beachside diners want, and this comfortable, clubby restaurant is certainly one you can rely on.
I welcome your comments, and encourage you to send feedback to me at Tina@VeroBeach32963.com.
The reviewer dines anonymously at restaurants at the expense of Vero Beach 32963.
