The offseason restaurant change that was Vero’s surest winner was Avanzare’s move two blocks north into the location long home to the 14th Avenue Steakhouse.
What a change the spacious new restaurant, with its large windows looking out on the brightly lit Theatre Plaza marquis, is from the dark, somewhat cramped quarters Avanzare previously occupied.
And happily, what a relief to find our favorite Tuscan trattoria in Vero’s old downtown continuing to offer some of the most innovative – not to mention delectable – dishes found in this area.
Does it sound like we’re fans of this restaurant?
While a number of specials we have marveled at on previous occasions have established themselves as hard-to-resist favorites, we try on our visits to sample the latest additions to a menu that changes frequently.
So when we stopped by on a recent Thursday, our attention was immediately captured by two of that evening’s appetizers: the B.L.T. ravioli ($12) and the seared Bluefin tuna over a tomato, caper and olive salad ($12).
These weren’t quite as exotic as the ones we enjoyed on a previous visit – when I had the Indian River grapefruit and angry shrimp, and my husband had the parmesan soufflé over drunken mushrooms – but they more than lived up to Avanzare’s reputation for creative appetizers.
The housemade ravioli B.L.T. was stuffed with bacon and arugula (there’s the B and the L), and was served in a fresh tomato sauce (the T). Worked perfectly. And the beautifully seared pieces of tuna were nicely complemented by this somewhat unusual salad.
There was nothing to get drunk or angry about if you ordered either of these two appetizers. All in all, a great start.
Then for entrees, I chose the pan-seared sea scallops ($28), and my husband on this occasion went for the veal chop ($32).
The perfectly seared scallops were served over a white bean puree with grilled asparagus, and finished with a bacon tomato vinaigrette. Wonderful. And the veal chop, perfectly prepared medium rare, was served with garlic potatoes and lemon spinach. My husband said the veal chop was as tender and flavorful as any he has ever had.
On previous visits, we have enjoyed Sicilian zuppa di pesce, the fire grilled salmon, and the always-wonderful short rib lasagna.
The short rib lasagna was an off-menu special when we first encountered it some years ago, and it never disappoints. The wine braised short rib, layered with pasta and parmesan cream, is luscious.
For dessert on this evening, we shared a marvelously dense olive oil chocolate cake ($7).
The local seafood Avanzare features – sometimes local hog snapper, sometimes trigger fish – is always excellent. And we have never gone wrong here ordering one of the veal dishes.
Dinner for two, with a modest bottle of wine, generally runs $90 to $100 before tax and tip.
For imagination in the kitchen – for creating dishes that on any given night, lead you to say ‘How did they do this?’ – Avanzare continues to offer some of the most interesting meals in Vero.
And ensconced now in a bright new home, with an additional cozy bar and dining area in the back that by itself seems almost the size of the previous quarters, Avanzare has plenty of space to accommodate the new friends it surely will be making this season.
I welcome your comments, and encourage you to send feedback to me at tina@verobeach32963.com .
The reviewer dines anonymously at restaurants at the expense of Vero Beach 32963.
