Things just seem to get better and better at the new, improved Village Shops, and that applies as well to the Citron Bistro, the best dining spot ever in Indian River Shores.
Owned by Jay McLaughlin and wife Joan, who have done a spectacular job of transforming the Shops, the Citron Bistro fills for Indian River Shores residents and north islanders the role a good neighborhood restaurant fills on Manhattan’s Upper East Side.
The Citron Bistro is not a white-tablecloth restaurant. As its name suggests, it has a bistro feel, with woven green place mats on butcher block tables. Under the wood beamed ceiling, the green banquettes that line two walls harmonize nicely with the wooden chairs, providing seating for about 32 inside.
On the nice fall evenings we can look forward to in a few weeks, about the same number can dine in the courtyard outside under large blue umbrellas.
On a visit last week, I ordered the roasted chicken ($22), my husband chose the evening’s swordfish special ($32) and our companion picked the gnocchi du jour ($22).
First, however, we each had a salad. Or I should say two of us had half salads. My husband ordered the classic Caesar ($7) and I opted for the kale salad ($8). The Caesar was a fine rendition of this dish, but the kale salad was tremendous – shaved kale, wheat berries, queso fresco, dried cherries, fresh mango, blueberries, strawberries and sunflower seeds, with a sherry shallot vinaigrette. Highly recommended.
Our companion, however, decided instead of a salad she wanted an order of Citron’s truffle parmesan fries ($5). We all thought this a bit strange until we sampled her fries: nice and crispy, quite possibly the best around. Hmm, maybe truffle fries are better than salads.
As comfort food goes, though, I will take a good roasted chicken every time. The Citron’s was crispy on the outside, juicy on the inside, just the way you’d want it. Our companion’s gnocchis also came with chicken in a light creamy marinara sauce. Very tasty.
But my husband insisted his dinner was the big winner – a lump crab and herb encrusted piece of swordfish cooked to perfection. Swordfish in restaurants is always a bit of a roll of the dice, but topped by the lump crab, Citron’s sword was exceptionally good.
On previous visits, we have enjoyed the shrimp & grits ($24) — jumbo shrimp sautéed with mushrooms and spinach, and served over scrumptious creamy cheese grits; the crab cakes ($25) – pan seared, served with a mango salsa and cilantro-avocado emulsion, with rice pilaf; and the 12-ounce boneless ribeye ($31), marinated and grilled, topped with crispy onions and gorgonzola herb butter.
On this visit, sampling the pre-dinner truffle fries left us too full for dessert. But on past visits, we shared one of Citron’s house-made temptations – a blueberry bread pudding with crème anglaise. Delicious.
The Citron Bistro offers a small but adequate selection of beers and wines. The only thing missing here is a liquor license that would allow diners to enjoy a pre-dinner cocktail.
With an appetizer, entrée and a modest bottle of wine, a party of two should be able to dine at the Citron Bistro for about $100.
Overall, the atmosphere is clubby, the food prepared correctly, and Citron gives northern barrier island residents a good neighborhood restaurant. But come on the early side. The last seating is at 8, and the restaurant’s agreement with Indian River Shores is that everyone will be out and on their way home by 9:30.
I welcome your comments, and encourage you to send feedback to me at [email protected].
The reviewer dines anonymously at restaurants at the expense of Vero Beach 32963.
