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DINING: Bijou Noche – Hard to imagine why it’s not packed

In my seven years writing this column, one thing that has become apparent is that residents of our community know and appreciate good food.

Hence, I find myself mystified by the recent struggles of one of my favorite restaurants, Bijou, which a couple of months ago renamed itself Bijou Noche to see if a new name and a slightly different approach might bring more diners to a bistro that clearly should be busier.

This is the sister restaurant of Avanzare, located immediately next door. But while Avanzare, even during these dog days, still packs diners in on weekends, the tastefully remodeled Bijou Noche rarely lacks these days for available tables.

Maybe it’s the name – because it sure isn’t the food.

Last Tuesday, we stopped by to sample dishes from Bijou Noche’s summer menu, which is a very well-priced $22 for four courses (or $30 if you choose to include wine).

The dishes that were offered on this summer menu last week were absolutely luscious.

The first course the night we were there presented a choice of smoked salmon bruschetta crostini, grated tomato with garlic and oregano on a fire-grilled crostini, or a salmon tartare crostini.

I chose the smoked salmon bruschetta. The chef had spread a layer of boursin cheese on the fire roasted crostini, topped it with microgreens, and then sprinkled lemon oil on the smoked salmon. Heavenly.

For the second course, the choices were a watermelon, goat cheese, toasted almonds and arugula salad, or a beet salad with caramelized onion rings. I opted for the watermelon salad, which was drizzled with a citrus jalapeno vinaigrette. A very refreshing salad with a bit of a kick.

Then my husband and I sampled four of the eight entrées: the meatballs; the caramelized sea scallops; the clams and chorizo; and a special swordfish dish which on this evening substituted for the pork rib-eye.

The meatballs were lamb, and were perfectly accompanied by a tzatziki sauce. Better than anything you are likely to get these days in Greece. The clams and chorizo were served in an olive oil, white wine, garlic and saffron sauce, and were a smash hit.

The sea scallops were served over local roasted corn puree with tomato basil infused cous cous and blistered cherry tomatoes. Wonderful sea scallops. And the perfectly cooked piece of swordfish was served with a caramelized onion, melted brie and grilled crimini mushroom jus. A fabulous dish.

So what did we miss? The other dishes offered for the third course sounded equally enticing: garlic shrimp; crispy flounder with a pepper-fennel escabeche sauce; ginger and dill glazed salmon; and steak and frittes.

Finally for dessert, we finished with the Key Lime bread pudding. A great end to a great meal.

If you have never tried Bijou, at a $22 price point for a dinner like this you can hardly go wrong. And if you simply haven’t been back to Bijou lately, the kitchen is still turning out some of the most inventive dishes in Vero – at better-than-ever summer prices.

I welcome your comments, and encourage you to send feedback to me at tina@verobeach32963.com.

The reviewer dines anonymously at restaurants at the expense of Vero Beach 32963.

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