Few island restaurants have the following of the Polo Grill, which for the past five years has been serving dependably good meals nightly in Portales de Vero at the south end of Ocean Drive.
With its dark paneling, leather chairs and booths, and its martini-and-red-meat ambiance, a number of beachside residents have come to view Polo as their dining “club” – and proprietor John Marx goes out of his way to make regulars feel more like “members” than simply guests.
Unlike many Vero restaurants, Polo is a place where table conversation doesn’t require shouting. And for many diners, the comfort level extends to the food – where bistro favorites like meatloaf and calves liver with bacon are available as well as pompano, steaks and veal chops.
Last week, three of us stopped by for dinner. As usual, the restaurant was packed when we arrived at 7:45, and we were glad we had made a reservation.
Marx ushered us to a nice booth in the center of the room, and on the table we found a list of red and white wines being offered for $30. We quickly ordered a very nice bottle of $30 cabernet.
On this particular evening, we decided to forego appetizers, and go straight to salads, which are included with entrees. I chose a Caesar salad – crispy romaine hearts, garlic croutons and shaved parmesan cheese – while my husband and our companion opted for bleu wedge salads. The latter were particularly nice, consisting of a wedge of iceberg lettuce, chunks of Danish bleu cheese, crisp bacon, and topped with a creamy bleu dressing.
For entrees on this visit, my husband opted for the evening’s special, a veal chop ($42.95), and our companion chose the crab cake entrée ($30.95). I had just about decided to try the pork osso buco when the waiter told us Polo now also has a lamb osso bucco. I couldn’t say no to that ($39.95).
The veal chop was a beauty, perfectly grilled medium rare, served with a tasty demiglace. It drew high marks. The crab cakes were very well seasoned and contained nice chunks of lump crab. My lamb osso bucco was superb – fork tender, juicy and succulent. A great choice. All entrées were accompanied by either rice or potato, as well as carrots and asparagus.
At dessert time, diners are offered a complimentary scoop of mango sorbet or mocha chip ice cream. Votes were split between the two Haagen Dazs flavors.
Dinner for two with appetizers and a modest bottle of wine should run about $100 before taxes and tip.
I also would be remiss were I to fail to mention the Polo Grill’s “Dinner at Five,” where those willing to come between 4 and 5:15 pm (I never cease to be amazed at how many dine at this hour) can order from a menu that includes 7 entrees for $18.95! These extremely popular dinners also include the choice of the Caesar or bleu wedge salad, and ice cream for dessert. House wines are available with the “Dinner at Five” menu for only $4.95 per glass, and house cocktails for $5.95.
One logistical note: For those who have not been to Polo for a while, the entrance has been shifted from Flamevine, where it had been for a few years, back to the front of the restaurant on Ocean Drive.
With excellent servers, John Marx has proven he has a good feel for what many beachside diners want. It’s always great to visit a restaurant that keeps getting better year after year, and this comfortable, clubby restaurant is certainly one you can rely on.
I welcome your comments, and encourage you to send feedback to me at [email protected].
The reviewer dines anonymously at restaurants at the expense of Vero Beach 32963.
