Who says nothing happens in Vero Beach in the summer? One of this year’s surprises for returning seasonal visitors is the discovery that while they were away, a game of restaurant musical chairs saw the French Mediterranean bistro Bijou leave its tiny 14th Avenue quarters and move across the street into the location previously occupied by the French Quarter.
This turns out to be a positive development in several ways.
For starters, Bijou – with some of the most creative, innovative dishes in Vero – had simply gained too many fans for its old cramped, noisy space.
Not only is the tastefully refurbished dining room of the new Bijou considerably larger, but the bistro now also has both a lounge and large patio dining area – as well as a full liquor license.
What’s not to like?
On a visit last week, I decided to start with the fried green tomatoes ($9), my husband picked the soup of the day ($8), and our companion opted for a field greens salad with blue cheese and sherry vinaigrette ($7).
The fried green tomatoes were topped with a tasty bistro sauce. Our companion also enjoyed her salad.
But my husband’s choice – a creamy roasted parsnip and caramelized onion soup with smoked bacon and sautéed pears – was absolutely delicious.
Then for entrées, I ordered the pan seared Scottish salmon ($28), my husband had the evening’s seafood special, shrimp crusted barramundi ($32), and our companion had the certified Florida Angus Florida strip steak ($26).
My salmon was perfectly cooked, served with crispy fried green tomatoes and pan seared baby spinach. A slightly smoky Mediterranean taste was imparted by the sweet pepper and fennel escabeche sauce.
Our companion’s steak was prepared medium rare, exactly as ordered, and served with a red wine reduction.
It was accompanied by fire grilled asparagus, a roasted garlic tomato, and duck fat whipped potatoes that can only be described as sinful.
My husband’s barramundi was served over a toscano collard puree with fresh tomato relish and a grilled scallion butter sauce.
Chef Chuck Arnold is a master with seafood, and this preparation of barramundi – or Asian sea bass, as it is also known, with its sweet, mild taste and delicate texture – was absolutely superb.
To complete the meal, we shared a portion of Bijou’s chocolate “tiramisu” – a decadent confection of warm espresso devil’s food cake over whipped mascarpone with chocolate pastry cream espresso syrup and chocolate almond sea salt candy bar.
Dinner for two with a modest bottle of wine is likely to run $120 to $130 before tax and tip.
We miss the old Bijou’s open kitchen, where you could sit at the dining bar and watch Chef Arnold and his team create.
But in all other respects, this very simple, tastefully decorated restaurant is a big upgrade.
I welcome your comments, and encourage you to send feedback to me at tina@verobeach32963.com.
The reviewer is a beachside resident who dines anonymously at restaurants at the expense of Vero Beach 32963.