DINING: Maison Martinique still a good value

Seared Sea Scallops

The winds of change are blowing through the elegant bamboo dining room of Maison Martinique.

With new management, a new chef, new additions to the wait staff, and (we are told) a new menu under development, this French restaurant that has long been a favorite of island diners will have to win their affection anew come season.

But just as in the old days, Maison Martinique again this summer is offering a very attractive prix fixe menu for diners willing to arrive before 6:30 p.m.

The special menu is, in fact, a slightly better bargain than last year, with not just salad and a choice of five entrées but also a glass of house wine included in the $21.95 price.

This deal could get a party of two out of Maison Martinique for under $60 including tax and a generous tip – an unheard of tab for dinner with wine at this stylish restaurant.

Last Thursday, we arrived shortly after 6, were greeted warmly by the hostess, and ushered to a table in the still-very-attractive bamboo room (which we hear is soon going to have a make-over).

One of Maison Martinique’s newer servers quickly came over to take our drink order. My husband and I both went for a glass of what turned out to be a quite decent chardonnay.

In glancing over the prix fixe menu, I quickly settled on the bouillabaisse.

My husband, who had heard glowing stories from friends who dined there a couple of weeks ago of the prix fixe pork chop, had arrived with that in mind.

But no pork chop was in sight.

So what to have?

The other four dishes on the prix fixe menu were grilled salmon, classic lump crab cake, Prince Edward Island mussels, or seared beef tips with a fig glaze. Hmmm.

While my husband was pondering these, I suddenly remembered that Thursday night at Maison Martinique also is lobster specialty night – an 8-ounce Caribbean lobster tail for $24.95. “Oh yes,” said the server. “I had forgotten about that.”

So my husband decided to go with the lobster.

For the first course, we both had a very nice house salad (with the lobster special, my husband could have opted for black bean soup – which is not offered with the prix fixe – but thought a light salad with what turned out to be a perfect vinaigrette dressing would be a better choice for a hot summer evening).

When the entrées arrived, I was quite happy with my choice.

While the bouillabaisse was not large, the seafood broth was flavorful, and the mussels, clams, shrimp, and chunks of salmon were perfectly cooked.

My husband’s 8-ounce lobster tail was again expertly prepared, and was accompanied by mashed sweet potatoes and asparagus. A very nice dish.

As was the case last summer, Maison Martinique changes its summer menu entrées from time to time, so the five described above may have vanished like the pork chop – and been replaced by a new array of choices – by the time you visit.

But as summer menus go, this one ranks right up there with the good ones.

As for what the future holds for Maison Martinique now that the last vestiges of Chef Yannick are gone, stay tuned.

I welcome your comments, and encourage you to send feedback to me at tina@verobeach32963.com.

The reviewer is a beachside resident who dines anonymously at restaurants at the expense of Vero Beach 32963.

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