On our side of the lagoon the Sebastian-area populace has been able to enjoy a number of decent ethnic restaurants like Italian, Chinese and Mexican for some time, but among the more interesting newer arrivals on the scene is a Puerto Rican-style eatery, Mr. Lechon, which appeared about a year ago in Malabar about 15 minutes to the north right on Route 1.
The Spanish word “lechon” means roast suckling pig. A plastic one stands out in front of the restaurant and that’s indeed the specialty dish of the house, as it should be for any Puerto Rican restaurant proud of its heritage.
It was one of my favorite dishes when I lived in Puerto Rico years ago, so when I went there early on a recent Saturday evening, I could not resist ordering it for nostalgic reasons. I was not disappointed – it was every bit as tasty and as moist as I remember it from the best restaurants on the island.
Mr. Lechon proclaims it has “the best pig roast in town” and it easily lives up to that boast. It comes with a side salad and a generous portion of yellow rice and beans (arroz con gandules), but you may also ask for other side dishes if you prefer.
Mr. Lechon’s menu is not very extensive, which is fine by me. I’d rather eat in a restaurant that does a very good job on a few specialties and serves them fresh than one that has 84 different things on the menu, practically guaranteeing that whatever you order is something pre-made that will be popped in the microwave to serve it to you hot.
The Bruno family started the restaurant to serve the sizable Puerto Rican community around Malabar, but it has already won over a considerable number of converts from the non-Puerto Rican population who love the country-style food and the warm and welcoming Latin atmosphere.
He’s from the San Juan suburb of Rio Piedras and makes sure everyone is having a good time, while she hails from Carolina on the east side of San Juan and serves as the hostess with the winning, dimpled smile, and also waits on customers, always ready to explain in perfect English or Spanish what the special dishes consist of.
On the night we arrived, my better half and I started with an order of alcapurrias de carne or turnovers ($2.50) and some tostones ($2.95), which were served with a choice of garlic or mayo/ketchup sauces for dipping. Then I knew what I wanted for a main dish – the lechon asado or roast suckling pig ($9.25), which the chef, Maria from Toa Alta, makes every weekend, Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays.
Just to try a different dish, Chrstine, on my recommendation, went for the shrimp mofongo ($13.95), which is described on the bilingual menu as mashed plantain. It is that, but that summary translation doesn’t do it justice. The hard plantains are mashed up with garlic and pork rinds to give it a very special flavor – Christine loved it the first time she tried it. The mofongo can also be accompanied by fried pork, roast suckling pig, or chicken.
There are only two things on the dessert menu, but at $2.95 they’re both delicious, the flan (custard pie) and pastel de tres leches (three-milk cake), and served with a generous dollop of whipped cream and a cherry on top.
Our meals were scrumptious and very reasonable in price, just over $50 for two including tax and tip. My only regret was that we hadn’t checked out Mr. Lechon sooner – and well, I would have liked to have a cup of decaf coffee after the delicious meal, but it wasn’t available and then again, you almost feel ashamed to ask for decaf coffee from someone in that culture that enjoys its real coffee taste. My doctor has taken me off caffeine altogether, but at times like these I think that maybe I ought to change doctors.
Mr. Lechon is attractively painted in bright colors like a little mountain jibaro (Puerto Rican hillbilly cowboy) ranch. It’s a family place where three generations often dine together, with little well-behaved children scurrying around while the grandparents catch up on the family news from their offspring. There is a children’s menu as well, which offers classics such as chicken nuggets and mac and cheese in addition to Puerto Rican specialties.)
The drink menu includes Puerto Rican brands of beer and sangria; the music is merengue and salsa, and old album covers of famous Puerto Rican singers from yesterday and today adorn the walls to reinforce the atmosphere. There’s even a finely decorated domino set for those who like to engage in that old Spanish game.
Mr. Lechon offers both inside and outside seating (outside you can sit near the gigantic wood-fired grill where the pig is roasted).
On weekends a Cuban band entertains with a Latin music rhythm that you will have to tap your feet to – you won’t be able to sit still.
All in all, Mr. Lechon is a great addition to the area restaurant scene. If you’re ready to try something different that you’ve never tried before, and enjoy a great new cultural experience, this is the place to go.
Mr. Lechon is open Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays for lunch and dinner from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. and on Sundays from 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. It has luncheon specials, will cater special lunches and offers take-out food as well. The restaurant is closed Monday-Tuesday-Wednesday. No reservations are required.
Bruno says he could use a few more customers for lunch and on Thursdays, but his weekend crowds have been pretty good. It’s easy to see why. Mr. Lechon is a fun place to visit and taste some wholesome good ethnic food that won’t put a big dent in your wallet. Puerto Ricans like to eat well and have a good time – who doesn’t? – but they have made it into an art form and they’re glad to share it with you at Mr. Lechon.
