VERO BEACH — On a recent Wednesday evening, we arrived at Michael’s Table at precisely 7:30. We had made our booking the evening before, and were glad we had reserved since even with the season starting to wind down, the relatively small Ocean Drive restaurant appeared pretty near full.
The young lady at the podium, however, could find no trace of our reservation.
Not under our last name, not under our first name, not under our phone number. A most disconcerting start. But don’t worry, the hostess finally said, escorting us to a table against the south wall.
Since our last visit, this area which originally hosted a large bar has been turned into a separate dining alcove.
While you can’t watch the sous chefs in the open kitchen from this section, it does seem to have helped further dampen the noise level.
Once seated, we quickly ordered a couple glasses of wine, and looked over that evening’s list of offerings.
The restaurant – a creation of Michael Lander, former executive chef at The Moorings Club – has from its debut a year ago offered a short menu that changes frequently: a half-dozen appetizers, and about the same number of entrées, prepared from fresh, highest-quality ingredients purchased whenever possible locally.
On this visit, I decided to start with the local rock shrimp and Crab Louie cocktail ($16) and my husband opted for the Hudson Valley foie gras ($18).
The shrimp and large chunks of crab in my appetizer were set atop a bed of crisp gem lettuce, accompanied by slices of avocado and heirloom tomatoes, and topped with a spiced classic dressing.
My husband’s foie gras sat atop a piece of brioche French toast, accompanied by an amarone cherry and port wine pan sauce. Excellent appetizers.
Then for entrées, I ordered the grilled Berkshire pork chop ($30) and my husband chose the Creekstone Farms black and blue surf and turf ($36).
The pork chop in a port cherry glaze was a thing of beauty, accompanied by cornbread chorizo stuffing, poached cherries and a spinach saute.
The surf and turf consisted of two lightly blackened jumbo shrimp, and a perfectly prepared filet mignon crowned with blue cheese. They were accompanied by local greens and a glass of delicious hand cut frittes.
For dessert, we shared a slice of an excellent carrot cake ($8).
On previous visits, we have enjoyed Michael’s salads – always created from the freshest local ingredients – and a variety of entrées. While both the dishes and the style of preparation change frequently, there is always a fish of the day (you can be confident it is going to be an excellent piece of fish) and usually – but not on this evening – you can enjoy the curiously named duck duck goose, which consists of smoky cinnamon brine breast, ginger beer braised leg and thigh, seared foie gras and braising jus.
While appetizers at Michael’s are a bit pricey, entrées seem quite reasonable, mostly running in the low to mid $30s.
Dinner for two with salad, entrée and dessert and a couple of glasses of wine should run in the $140 area before tax and tip.
At the end of its second season, Michael’s Table has begun to develop a following among beachside diners.
By the way, as we were going out the door, we asked the hostess if she had ever figured out what had happened to our reservation.
“Oh, yes,” she said. “You were down for tomorrow night.”
Hmmm.
I welcome your comments, and encourage you to send feedback to me at [email protected].
The reviewer is a beachside resident who dines anonymously at restaurants at the expense of Vero Beach 32963.
