SEBASTIAN — There’s something about enjoying a tasty meal of seafood and a frosty mug of beer while looking at the water that’s good for the soul – or at least for this native Floridian’s soul, anyway.
Fortunately, the Sebastian area offers several choice spots to do just that, but Squid Lips is a favorite for locals who want an informal, yet slightly less touristy experience.
As my dining companion pointed out, the place has got all the cozy charm of your favorite dive bar, but with quality food, several imports on tap and courteous, professional service that makes a memorable night out.
Squid Lips has been on the Sebastian scene for a decade, but for those who have never been, it’s unique in that it sits a hundred yards or so out into the Indian River Lagoon on a dock that occasionally sways, as it was Thursday evening when we showed up around 7 p.m. for dinner.
It was one of those slightly blustery days that we’ve been having lately and most of the guests had on some type of windbreaker, or at least long sleeves.
But in these parts, it’s got to get pretty nippy before the locals lose their shorts and flip-flops – it wasn’t that cold.
We had just enough time to be served at the bar when the buzzer and lights on our pager went off and our table was ready.
Seated on the south edge of the restaurant we had a superb, serene view of Sebastian’s waterfront and of the marina.
With its famed Pelican Island Wildlife Refuge, Sebastian has long been a haven for migratory birds of all kinds and they love to hang out around the docks to see what they can glean from the fishermen.
Choosing an appetizer can be the toughest part of a visit to Squid Lips, as there are 16 good ones on the menu from bacon-wrapped scallops to calamari, most of which I’ve tried and have yet to be disappointed.
Plus, a few pages back in the menu is a good raw bar selection of sahimi scallops, oysters, clams and shrimp that are generally not my first choice, but come highly recommended by frequent patrons of Squid Lips who love their raw seafood.
On top of that, Squid Lips’ Joe’s conch chowder ($3.99 cup/$5.99 bowl) that I’ve had many times is a great starting point and, paired with the warm loaf of sourdough bread that is brought to the table, could bump an appetizer off your priority list.
In no hurry to get to the main course, we chose two appetizers to share – the spinach-artichoke dip ($8.99) and the ahi tuna tartar ($12.99). We wanted to see if the dip tasted like something pre-prepared (it didn’t. If this creamy, savory concoction wasn’t made from scratch it fooled us) and to see if the ahi tuna selection would appeal to even a person like me who is yet to be converted to a sushi lover.
A huge, colorful plate arrived with homemade potato chips, a chunky red sauce with a creamy, white sauce drizzled over the whole dish, in the style of nachos.
Tender strips of yummy ahi tuna were incorporated into a sweet, tangy sauce that had just enough kick from jalapenos. The creamy sauce also struck a perfect balance as it was seasoned with some heat from wasabi.
All that was left were two or three bare potato chips when the plate was swifted away by our server, Beth.
Beth kept a close eye on us, despite the place being packed, and kept our mugs of Bass Ale and Stella Artois ($3.79 each) fresh. When she saw that we were polishing off the appetizers, she took our dinner orders.
I wanted one of Squid Lips big, signature “our salads” with mixed greens, red onions, raisins, cranberries, candied pecans and bleu cheese crumbles in a vanilla vinaigrette dressing – but I also wanted to try the sauce from the Thai mahi entrée.
No problem, Beth said.
The add-on of the fish brought the dish to $16.98. My companion decided, on my recommendation, to try the Islamorada redfish with scalloped potatoes on the side ($18.99).
The salad was wonderfully fresh and crunchy, as always, and the Thai sauce on the nicely-cooked, generous portion of mahi was delicious.
The redfish came as advertised, with a crabmeat stuffing and béarnaise sauce, a vegetable medley and the potato side dish. He raved about the sauce, saying it tasted like homemade, but was a little disappointed in the stuffing. The vegetables were perfectly cooked for his taste and the potatoes a solid choice as an alternative to Squid Lips’ tempting fries.
After going over the dessert menu of some fairly generic choices from Key lime pie to Reese’s peanut butter pie and chocolate seduction cake ($5.99/ slice), my companion asked Beth if any of the desserts were made on premises. She replied no, so we decided to be good and skip dessert.
Dinner for two with appetizers and drinks at Squid Lips will cost between $70 and $85 with tip, not bad for a relaxing evening out with live music, which is offered every night of the week.
But don’t expect to make it a late night, as the place clears out early, with a 9 p.m. closing time on weekdays.
If you’re not ready to join the rest of Sebastian in retiring shortly after the sun goes down, just cruise or even walk a short stretch on Indian River Drive to find a livelier destination for a nightcap, or even a dance.
The reviewer dines anonymously at restaurants at the expense of the Sebastian River News.
