VERO BEACH — Almost two decades after it opened at the southern end of Cardinal Drive, about the only change detectable at the Pomodoro Grill these days is a gradual passing of the torch from founder Peppy Amelio to his son Amadeo.
Peppy still wanders about this attractively decorated Tuscan trattoria, making sure all is well with longtime patrons. But Amadeo, who for years spent most of his time in the kitchen, is now seen more frequently in the front of the house as well.
No doubt the both of them – as well as other members of the Amelio family who have played a role in this remarkable restaurant success story – will share in the plaudits next year when this beachside favorite celebrates its 20th anniversary.
Last Thursday evening, we booked at the last minute, and because the night air was a bit chilly for the outside garden – which is perfect for dining al fresco (or enjoying a cappuccino after dinner) on a warm winter evening – we weren’t able to get a reservation in the colorful dining room until 8 p.m.
To our surprise, when we arrived, a couple of tables of hardy souls – no doubt northerners simply appreciative of not being back home – were enjoying themselves in courtyard.
“Didn’t have a reservation, and wanted to dine here,” the hostess said with a shrug.
We were quickly seated in a nice corner table, and Ashley quickly arrived to take our wine order.
On this visit, our party of three decided to share two appetizers. Our companion and I voted for the antipasto misto all zio matteo ($9.95) and my husband chose the evening’s special appetizer, panko crusted seared yellowfin tuna with a spicy lemon lime dipping sauce ($13.95).
The mixed antipasto was a very attractive assortment of fresh mozzarella, vine ripe tomatoes, sharp provolone, prosciutto di Parma, calamata olives and marinated roasted tri-color bell peppers.
The tomatoes weren’t the best I’ve had here (it’s so hard to find great tomatoes), but everything else was delicious.
My husband’s yellowfin tuna was a huge hit. The sushi grade tuna was infused with a cayenne and citrus zest before it was pan seared – giving it quite a kick – and was perfectly complemented by the spicy dipping sauce.
“This dish was my idea,” Amadeo told us.
Before we moved to the field greens-and-tomato salads which accompany each meal, our companion asked: “Where are the garlic rolls?” Pomodoro’s addictive, olive-oil basted garlic knots are surely the best hot garlic rolls in town.
“Coming right out of the oven,” Ashley promised. And as soon as she had brought our salads – I had the tangy tomato basil vinaigrette dressing, while my husband and our companion opted for the creamy Vidalia onion – a basket of the warm garlic knots appeared.
For entrées, I had the shrimp over linguini in a spicy fra diavolo sauce ($19.95), my husband had the calamari o’bianco ($18.95) and our companion ordered the chicken marsala ($18.95).
The fra diavolo sauce on my shrimp dish redefined spicy.
I like a fra diavolo sauce with a kick, but on this evening, it almost left my mouth numb. This may have been a one night aberration – a little too much of the red pepper flakes in the tasty sauce. But if you don’t like things very hot, you might wish to mention that to the server.
The calamari sautéed in a light white wine and garlic sauce, and served over linguini, were excellent, as was the chicken marsala, served with a side of pasta in a pan sauce.
By the time we finished our entrées, we had enjoyed far too many of the garlic knots to consider dessert.
Dinner for two, accompanied by a modest bottle of wine, typically comes to about $100 before taxes and tip.
While the Amelio family now has a second popular beachside outpost at Johnny D’s, Pomodoro is still going strong, and we look forward to celebrating its 20th anniversary in 2015.
For consistently well-prepared seafood, veal, chicken and pasta dishes (along with great brick-oven pizzas) at reasonable prices, this remains a restaurant that is hard to beat.
I welcome your comments, and encourage you to send feedback to me at tina@verobeach32963.com.
The reviewer is a beachside resident who dines anonymously at restaurants at the expense of Vero Beach 32963
