SEBASTIAN — Squid Lips, a popular Sebastian hangout that sits atop the Indian River Lagoon, is easier to reach by water than by land.
On a rainy night, as it was the evening we visited, if you arrive by car you must cross Indian River Drive, navigate a stretch of sand and gravel that is quite treacherous when wet, and make sure you’re heading toward the restaurant, not the adjacent marina.
But once you make it to the entrance, you are hoping for the warm, friendly greeting that makes it all worthwhile.
On this Saturday evening, we were welcomed by an empty hostess stand. When it takes five minutes for someone to acknowledge you when the restaurant isn’t that busy, the evening is not off to a great start.
But a server finally noticed us and sat us at a table by the window (I’m sure the view would have been breathtaking, had it not been dark and raining), and one thing on the menu immediately caught my eye: the bacon-wrapped scallop appetizer ($13.99).
How could I not order my favorite food wrapped around my third-favorite food?
The gorgeous scallops (third-favorite, thank you for asking) were perfectly cooked, with a nice caramel sear on the outside, yielding to the moist, tender inside.
Unfortunately, the dish committed a cardinal sin: the bacon (my first favorite) wasn’t crispy.
Our other appetizer, the fish tacos ($8.99), also was a near miss. The flaky white fish was battered and fried to a beautiful golden brown; the shredded cabbage tossed in a tequila lime sauce was delicious; the pico de gallo was shockingly fresh, and the chipotle aioli added a nice smoky heat to the whole affair.
Lamentably, the taco shells were a bit soggy.
For our entrées, we ordered the shrimp (yes, there is an item on the menu called “shrimp”) and the stuffed flounder ($18.99).
The shrimp ($16.99) were skewered, basted with a honey rum glaze, and grilled over a wood fire. As with the scallops, the grill imparted a sumptuous smoky, oaked flavor to the shrimp. The glaze was tasty.
The flounder was a filet stuffed with a blend of lobster and crab meat, then baked in a citrus butter.
The dish was cooked perfectly, the mild flounder flaking apart at the lightest touch of my fork, and the stuffing rich, moist, and delicious.
It came with roasted norland red potatoes, which were deliciously moist and creamy, and cole slaw, which was fresh and crisp, with the ideal blend of tart and sweetness.
All in all, the food at Squid Lips was tasty, but nothing was particularly exciting.
In retrospect, I’d say the most memorable part of the evening was the fresh-out-of-the-oven loaf of Bimini bread brought out at the beginning of the meal. This sweet bread is infused with coconut that lends it a very unique flavor.
A man cannot live on bread alone. But if you’re in the area, you can get some pretty good food at Squid Lips – and on a nice day, the view considerably enhances the dining experience.
The reviewer dines anonymously at restaurants at the expense of Sebastian River News.