SEBASTIAN — Based on its name, we went to the Riverfront Chill & Grill anticipating a view of the Indian River Lagoon, a laid- back atmosphere, and perhaps some good old-fashioned barbecue.
It not only delivered on the view and vibe, but the cuisine was even better than we had dared hope.
My guests and I arrived early on a Thursday evening to find the bar full and the dining room empty.
The decor could generously be described as kitschy, but the atmosphere was comfortable and we were greeted warmly by the owner, who was tending bar, and our server, who seated us next to a large window.
From our booth, we had a picturesque view of lingering squalls from Hurricane Sandy agitating the lagoon.
I had looked at the menu online, and had expected we would be filling the table with fried food and smoked meats.
The menus we were handed, however, had been expanded, and there were also some exciting verbal specials.
Indeed, the potato nachos ($7.99) wound up being the only thing that ended up on our table that could be considered barbecue.
These perfectly crispy, house-made potato chips were piled with pulled pork, melted cheddar cheese, and just the right amount of sweet and tangy barbecue sauce.
They were served with sour cream on the side, but for perhaps the first time in my nacho-eating life I found it unnecessary.
We also got the fresh organic mixed greens salad ($6.99), which in addition to the fairly standard tomato and cucumber slices, contained pecans that gave the dish a nice salty crunch, balanced out by the sweetness of crumbled cornbread. The salad was finished with a creamy smoked tomato dressing.
It was the crispy duck wings ($9.99), however, that were the highlight of a stellar first course: six drummettes tossed in a sweet chili sauce, served in a bowl over cabbage tossed in a ginger sesame vinaigrette.
The exceptionally crispy skin yielded to the moist leg meat, and the heat of the sauce and acidity of the dressing cut through duck’s inherent gaminess.
For my entree, I ordered one of the night’s specials, the grilled pork tenderloin ($17.99) with black beans, rice, and pico de gallo.
While not bad by any stretch of the imagination, the dish was under-seasoned, lacking the vibrant flavors I associate with Cuban cuisine.
My guests ordered the grilled short ribs ($15.99) and the lamb shank ($19.99).
I found it difficult to believe that the short ribs were grilled, as they had the tenderness one expects from braising; however, a lovely smoky flavor left little room for doubt.
The star of the night, however, was the braised lamb shank.
As soon as I heard our server say “lamb” when reciting the specials, I had an idea of what I was going to order; when she followed it with shank, I was convinced.
Then something strange happened: she told us that it was served over penne pasta with a mushroom-gorgonzola sauce.
I have no problem with any of those things, but in a barbecue joint? With lamb?
No way, I thought.
My companion, though, was braver, and as soon as I had a taste, I envied him his courage.
The shank was braised and served on the bone, though it was already starting to fall off when the plate arrived.
The pasta was perfectly cooked, the gorgonzola used ideally – to add a creamy richness to the dish without overpowering it – and I was pleasantly surprised to find actual sautéed mushrooms in the dish, not just the sauce.
Though we were already quite full, we decided to share a piece of peanut butter pie.
It was passable, but almost certainly came out of a box, lacking the light, airy texture that arises from painstaking whisking.
At least the whipped cream was homemade.
All in all, the Riverfront Chill & Grill was a pleasant surprise. I can’t wait to go back and try the barbecue.
The reviewer dines anonymously at restaurants at the expense of Sebastian River News.