VERO BEACH — While September is a slow month for many Vero restaurants, we were quite distressed to find only two other people waiting at a hibachi grill station when we arrived at Fujiyama shortly after 7 p.m. a couple of weeks ago.
If you enjoy the teppanyaki style of Japanese cooking and the razzledazzle, knives-flashing preparation of food at your table that was introduced to this country by Benihana a half century ago, you get as good a version as you could possible want at Fujiyama.
Better, in our view, than Benihana. Sitting back from the road in a shopping plaza behind the Olive Garden on Route 60, the Fujiyama Japanese Steakhouse and Sushi Bar has been a popular spot – particularly among families with children – since it opened in 2009.
So what gives? The show is better than ever. The food is better than ever. Is the difficult economy in Indian River County simply taking its toll on family restaurants? We sure hope the paucity of diners on this latest visit was an aberration.
The big draw, of course, are the Asian chefs who perform for up to 10 diners at each of Fujiyama’s hibachi grill stations.
Seconds after they arrive on stage, a ring of oil poured on the grill erupts in a dramatic flash of flame that signals the start of the show.
Then wielding their implements like members of a military drill team, they toss eggs into the air and catch them with a spatula before breaking them to mix with delicious fried rice. Chopped broccoli goes airborne toward surprised diners, who are challenged to catch it in their mouths (no one at our table did).
The chef offered to squirt sake across the grill and down the throat of even more venturesome enthusiasts. Based on our table’s success (or lack thereof) with the broccoli, we’re glad no one volunteered.
While waiting at the hibachi station for showtime to begin, the assembling diners are all served soup (a clear broth with mushroom) and a small salad consisting of greens and a slice of tomato topped with a house ginger dressing.
Then for entrées, on this visit I ordered the chicken and shrimp combo ($20.95), and my husband opted for the lobster and scallop ($26.95), and our companion went for the chicken and filet mignon ($22.95). All orders are served with a generous portion of Fujiyama’s egg fried rice.
The shrimp, the scallops and the lobster were top notch. The filet was also tender and tasty, and the chicken was fine. All dinners also are accompanied by a large portion of grilled chopped veggies, served perfectly prepared al dente.
On this visit, we passed on the dessert. But on previous occasions, we have enjoyed the tempura cheese cake ($4.50). Crusty on the outside and melted inside, it’s better than it sounds.
While the other diners at our hibachi table were drinking beer and sake, we opted for a decent bottle of California charddonay ($22). Fujiyama also offers a full range of drinks for those so inclined.
We would also note the restaurant also features a wide range of sushi dishes. The sushi bar is in a separate room off to the left as you enter Fujiyama.
We didn’t try it, so we really can’t comment except to note there is no shortage of places in Vero to get sushi. Fujiyama, for most island dinners, will be primarily about hibachi. Dinner for two with drinks will run you $65-$80 before tax and tip.
Our chef on this latest visit was Paul, a Chinese practitioner of the art who put on a masterful performance – much better than we have ever encountered at a Benihana.
We have no hesitation in recommending Fujiyama for good food and a presentation that grandkids particularly love. And we hope when you visit, you will find the restaurant crowded.
Based on performance, it deserves it.
I welcome your comments, and encourage you to send feedback to me at [email protected].
The reviewer dines anonymously at restaurants at the expense of Vero Beach 32963.
