VERO BEACH — Last winter, we paid a couple of visits to the Fishack, an eatery with the ambiance and menu of a New England seafood shack that we thought quite promising when it opened a year ago August on Old Dixie Highway.
Our winter visits to this New England-inspired grubbery, with a nautical décor that could easily be found in clam or seafood shacks on Boston’s North Shore, were not quite as encouraging, however.
The fresh seafood entrées – pan sauteed, grilled or baked – were less than inspiring. But hey, maybe that’s not what we should have been ordering.
When we stopped by last month as part of our sampling of area lobster rolls, the lobster roll was excellent – so we decided to give the Fishack another try. And I am happy to report that you can eat well here, if you are realistic in your expectations.
For entrée’s, I chose the shrimp taco ($10.95), and my husband went for the whole-belly fried clam basket ($16.95).
The clams had been a particular disappointment on our winter visits, badly overbreaded on both occasions.
But this time, they were prepared as they should be, and perfectly fried. In fact, my husband felt these tender beauties were better than the ones he uses as the local standard at the New England Eatery in Melbourne Beach.
My two tacos each included three juicy shrimp, nicely blackened, in a wrap filled (but not overfilled) with cabbage, tomato, cheese, cilantro and onion salsa. A good choice.
And the lobster roll lived up to its previous review, chunks of lobster, very light mayonnaise, in a lightly toasted split-top roll.
All three orders were supplemented by sweet potato tater tots ($1 extra), a highly recommended upgrade.
For dessert, we went with a homemade key lime pie ($5.95) that was excellent.
Then on a third visit two weeks ago, my husband ordered the fried seafood basket ($20.95) – giving him a chance to sample all the fried seafood – and I decided to try the stuffed shrimp ($19.95).
The fried scallops, oysters and shrimp in the seafood basket were again lightly breaded – just like the fried clams he enjoyed the week before – and the scallops in particular were large and juicy.
Fried seafood here is good.
But my four stuffed shrimp were supposed to be stuffed with crab meat, and while the shrimp were okay if a bit overcooked, there was not even a hint of crab in the stuffing in two of them.
The bottom line, it seems to me, is you do pretty well when you stick to the fried appetizers, the fried baskets, the po boys and the tacos.
It’s when the Fishack chefs sail into fine-dining land that things become more problematic.
Colorful and very casual, with both tables and booths, this no-frills restaurant is exactly what a fishack ought to be, exuding a family friendly atmosphere.
With many relatively inexpensive items on the menu, dinner for two with a couple of drinks or glasses of wine (Fishack has a full bar) can run $60 to $70 before tax and tip.
On our most recent visits, we had excellent, attentive servers – always a plus. On some evenings, there also is music.
Give the Fishack a chance to do what a seafood shack does best, and you probably are going to leave happy.
I welcome your comments, and encourage you to send feedback to me at [email protected].
The reviewer dines anonymously at restaurants at the expense of Vero Beach 32963.
